DIY - Install your own faucet
I’m a licenced plumber in Alberta, Canada. I get asked " What are some of the easier plumbing DIY's a home owner could tackle” In the next few blog posts I’ll attempt to give some professional advice and tips on this subject. I’ve looked online to see what advice is out there, and often found some aspects were missing. I wanted to provide my own spin on this particular task: How to install a faucet. I’ll go through everything from step 1: fully reading instructions (which even professionals do!), to the tools needed, and a few tips here and there to stop leaks before they happen.
Every homeowner, has an ideal comfort level
with DIYs no matter if it’s plumbing or electrical or something else. A simple task
like installing a flapper which by the way requires zero tools is one thing. However it can be quite daunting to change a
faucet when working with pressurized water, old valves, decaying matter in a
p-trap and making sure it all goes together with out a hitch.
The first, and most important, task to do when
changing any faucet or even simply installing a brand new one in a reno, is **read
the instructions**! It might seem trivial, however even as professionals,
we find that brands change the way they do things 2-3 times in the same year. So even if I only briefly look over the instructions
to see if there have been any changes, I still read the instruction. The big things
to look for is the parts lay out and the tools needed. Specifically look for
anything that says “not included” or optional.
Next, give your self some time and space. If you think the job will be 20 minutes, triple
or quadruple that estimate! When it
comes to space, please do empty under the sink. If you’re bigger or even
skinnier have some sort of foam pad handy..
laying under a sink with a cabinet edge in your back isn’t comfortable. But
necessary. Also have a flood light or flash light handy.
Tools
-
Basin wrench
-
Multi bit screw driver
-
Socket set with the screw
driver attachment (uber handy) we use these on the regular
-
Hammer (yes on occasion
you’ll need a hammer)
-
Crescent wrench (two
sizes sometimes)
-
Pump pliers (two sizes
sometimes)
-
Flat scraping blade
-
Scotch bright pad.
-
5/8’s open ended
wrench (fits on a 3/8” compression nut)
-
Hack saw blade (just
the blade. And yes occasionally you’ll need this too.)
How to choose the correct faucet.
There are a few things to consider. Is this a
simple replacement, or is this a reno with a completely new sink?
Options,
-
Single hole.
-
4” center set
-
5” center set (very
very rare but to exist)
-
8” center set
-
Vessel sink
install. *typically a longer/taller
faucet is needed.
-
Roman tub filler (typical
for a soaker tub, mounted on the tub)
-
Optional is a plate
that allows you to cover up old holes to allow a single hole install.
-
Optional is a plate
that allows you to cover up some holes and allow a single faucet and a single side
sprayer (typically cheaper kitchen faucets)
This list might not be every option out there
but it should be the majority.
Other features to consider, Water sense, low
flow. Though very typical for many new faucets these days. They feel like they
spray just as much water as their predecessors however it’s due to the aerator
technology as well as inlet piping that determines the ultimate volume. This is
determined in GPM or LPM depending on where the faucet comes from or intended
on being sold. Canadian cUPC and NSF certified faucets are measured in GPM (Gallons
per minute) for some odd reason.
Other features may include integrated pull out wands with adjustable spray settings
and even no touch or single tap technology.
Things you may want to do before you
purchase.
-
Take a picture
-
Use a measuring tape
from center of each handle (assuming two handle) This will let you determine “center set”
-
Again, is this a
replacement or a reno? If it’s a reno you want to know what counter (granite,
quarts etc) Sink, top mount, under mount what are the measurements! Very very
important.
After you have your measurements, or determined
if I’ts a simple replacement. You should have a good idea of what you’re
getting. Even still, bring those
pictures and feel free to ask questions. Lots of questions.
Once you’re set! Let’s get your work space
prepared.
Clear the cabinet. Lay a decent sized towel down on the floor
beside you. On the towel lay out your tools. This is a pro tip! Customers never
want to see tools on their brand-new hard wood floors or any floor for that
matter. If your plumber doesn’t put anything down. Then maybe think about his
over all “value” to you. This is typically where you want to turn off the water
first. As a general rule of thumb and so no accident’s happen. Turn off the
valves under the sink first. Open the faucet to drain the water down. Close the
faucet and maybe take this time to read the instructions again before you
start. After a couple minutes open the
faucet again. IF water starts to spray this means your valves are passing. Very
very common. This is Pro tip #2 by the way. IF this is the case simply use your
main water shut off. Shut off the water and open a faucet on a lower floor if
possible. This way if your main also passes it will dribble below where you’re
working. Sadly if you are working at the lowest point in the home then prepare
with some towels. More of an annoyance really.
So you have everything ready. You’ve read the
instructions, you have the necessary tools and hopefully PPE (clear safety glasses
& gloves at minimum) The cabinet is cleared and the water is off.
Demo time.
Get your cushion or foam pad from the kids
play room. Get under the sink with a flood light or flash light. Make a mental note of where things are
connected. If it’s a simple replacement the job should be very very easy
despite how it may look.. You will likely see rust, debris, signs of past or present
leaks, white electrolysis residue growing out of different metals. This is why you need safety glasses. As you undo nuts, bolts or screws this stuff
will fall in your face. Sometimes a dust
mask is handy.
The picture below is just a simple kitchen
faucet which you may notice has lots of what I’m describing. The older the
faucet typically the harder to remove. If it’s Moen like this example. Hopefully
the tool needed was left with the faucet or taped up in to a corner. If not
then get out your basin wrench or small crescent wrench. If the nut doesn’t budge
get out some WD40 and spray it a couple times and wait 20-30 minutes. If it loosens off with out a hitch then you’re
in luck!
-
Loosen all retaining
clamps, nuts, screws etc which ever the case.
-
Loosen the hot and
cold supply lines from the valves. (keep
a towel handy)
-
If there are any
accessories loosen or unclip them at the same time.
Your efforts should do you well as the faucet
should come out.
If the pesky nut didn’t budge. Then loosen
everything possible and get out your saw blade and hammer.. cut through the
brass post at or above the nut. Even if you only cut 40-50% through then use a
hammer to break it off. This is Pro tip #3
we use this method a few times a year. Couple optional tools you can use. Vibration cutting tools, Dremel and a small grinder
can sometimes fit. Saw blade works great
but can be tedious.
In some cases like in 4” center set faucets
the nuts holding the faucet in are made of plastic. If they don’t budge simply
take your flat blade screw driver, hammer and wedge it then whack. They will snap
easily. Used this method on a porcelain pedestal sink two days ago as a matter
of fact.
 |
| Oxidation on threads |
Now you have somewhat of a clean slate.
9 times out of ten there is now some cleaning
involved.
Before you install a new faucet always clean
and dry the area. Make sure you have scraped off any old putty, silicone etc.
you want a perfectly clean slate.
After you have cleaned up you may as well box
or bag up the old stuff. Tip #4 plumbers
recycle the old metal. Brass and copper are worth money. So, if you’re doing a reno make sure you don’t
throw this stuff away. It may pay for that faucet you really want in the
kitchen.
In this blog post I haven’t covered the drain
portion. Keep an eye out for part two!
Install time.
This is the part where I see varying degrees
of opinions. Which is why I’m writing this blog in the first place. I may have
said above in the intro.. I took considerable time to read some other blog posts
however it became clear to me they were not written from an experienced
plumber. They sure didn’t pass along any trade secrets. The BIG NO NO and Pro Tip #5 is on a
compression joint NEVER use Teflon tape.
Teflon tape is only to be used on NPT threads. Simple as that. If you’re concerned about leaks on any other
types of threads or sealing surfaces use either Teflon paste or Kevlar paste. I prefer Kevlar paste as it’s fine for rubber
surfaces too. Obviously read the
instructions on the type of paste you choose.
But again 3 other blog posts I read before writing this one says stuff
like “it’s a good idea to wrap a little plumber’s tape around the threads of
the supply lines before reconnecting them.” This is bad advice. If it’s a new faucet and the supply lines are
3/8” compression nuts with rubber washers inside. Then you don’t need any
sealant what’s so ever. If you are using
old used supply lines.. get new ones. Pro Tip #6 Never re use old supply lines!
For the $7ea that they are.. get new ones. They only last about 15 years
anyways.
Back to the install! The hard part is
over. If you need to Please re-read the
instructions and specifically look at the parts diagram to see where each part
fits. This is the diagram that shows all the parts in order. Very very
important to pay keen attention. This step
will save you 1 minute to an hour depending on each situation.
Not every brand is the same but if you choose
a nearly identical faucet to install in-place of what you had then the install
will be similar to your removal. Follow
the instructions and the parts diagram for visual support.
You may need help especially if it’s a kitchen
faucet to keep the faucet center as you’re trying to tighten it up. Especially
if it’s a single handle one hole. If you’re
all alone like most plumbers, we typically snug up the screws, bolts, nuts what
ever they might be so it’s able to be moved with ease. Then we make sure everything is centered. We continue snugging up the screws etc then
check again. Then snug it up some more until it’s solid. Never over tighten. If
you hear squeaking, It’s plenty tight. If
it is tight but still moves, then there maybe an issue like the bottom ring isn’t
sitting right or maybe the sealing O-ring wasn’t in place etc. Pro tip #7 silicone is generally not used for
the base of a single handle faucet. 9
times out of 10 there are O-rings, sealing rings, foam washers etc. Silicone will make things slick and even if
it’s tight it may move and you might feel you need to do more tightening. Don’t over tighten!!
Lets say the instructions made sense and the
install went off with out a hitch… what now?
Before you turn the water back on. Remove the aerator. Most new faucets
there is a tool in the box. If there is no tool then it’s usually meant to be
removed by hand. Lefty loosie righty tightly Pro tip #8
Open the Hot valve first. Or what you may
think is hot. (Ideally both are connected at this point) Run the hot water and
wait till it feels hot. Compare with the
faucet markings. If it’s reversed simply turn the water back off. Reverse the
water lines and start again. Open the hot first and test. Then cold and test. You may experience some air in the lines.. This
is completely normal. Another normal thing you may see is Black or Blueish
looking water or even sediment. All normal and Ideal with that aerator
removed. Once the water runs clear on
both hot and cold. It’s time to put the aerator back in. There should be an O-ring
or a flat ring, so no sealants will be needed. Though you can use “Silicone
Lubricant” very different from silicone. When working with O-rings Pro Tip #9
is get the O-ring wet with water or use silicone lubricant as to deter pinching
or cutting of the O-ring.
At this point I’d say you’re done. Now If at some point you found a bigger issue
that you feel you’re not willing to take on then call a pro. Don’t use the phone book or google the general
term plumber. Call family members or
friends and get a good solid referral. Pro Tip #10 If friends and family haven’t
come up with a solid referral then Call your Realtor. They always have 1-3 that they trust up their
sleeve. Always ask for an estimate and
make sure you have them agree to hold their estimate to within 10% of what they
think the job will cost. Stuff comes up with every job but a 100% overage is unacceptable.
Let them know that right off the bat.
There is a company in my city that is known for “$1000” faucet installs…
keep an eye out on google reviews for whom that might be! Absolute craziness!
Well my
friends you just tackled yours; for next to free. If you liked this post keep an eye out for the
next one. It will be about drainage in relation to faucets. Some faucets come
with a pop up. Question is… Do you use it? Or do you choose something else? Read on to find out!
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