How to Install a faucet Part 2. (Drain section)
Hi everyone, Thanks for reading part 2 of the DIY plumbing series. In this post we will specifically go over installing "drainage" when it comes to installing a faucet. Every Faucet install is slightly different but we will be talking about a typical leaver type pop up drain that connects to your faucet. Usually a rod slides up and down which opens and closes a drain in the sink.
Step #1 again Read the directions.. These directions will give you the insight of which parts go where. In this post I will talk about a mistake I made during an install that cost me 60 minutes all because I didn't refer to the parts diagram.
So generally we will install the faucet and water lines first before the drainage because the water lines are further back. If the drainage was completed already then it might be harder to complete the faucet install. So we would follow that part of the instructions first. Including inserting the rod in to the hole. We will get back to the rod part in a bit.
Next step If it's not already done.. Is to remove the old drain if it's still there. Generally i prefer to update the drain part because they only last so long. Depending on what the home owner uses the sink for is really the lead in to how long it will last. Also has the customer used chemical's such as mr plumber.. especially in a metal drain.. This can really eat away at the piping. Part of why we are replacing the drain is 9 times out of 10 the drain is likely running slow. Since you are already replacing the faucet it's a good time to start from scratch.
So This picture Isn't exactly the best picture to use because it's new. But I figured this might give you a good look at the components.
First Step I'd suggest. Is get a small bucket and put it under the trap. This could be even a small mixing bowl, mop pail etc. Anything small enough to fit under the P-trap.
Next step. Loosen all the nuts. Lefty loosey righty tighty. Can start anywhere really. I personally start at the black upper nut in this picture. Below the grey nut. Then I'd loosen the P-trap nut or sometimes called the Union-nut. this will let this pipe slide out of the way.. Be prepared for about 1 cup to 1.5 cups of water.
Once that's out of the way the next step is the grey nuts. bigger top one in the picture as well as the smaller one with the rod. Once this is done there maybe (depending on your directions) another nut on top "the chrome drain portion in the sink." Once all are loosened the drain will be out. It's this time where you may need to clean the sink with a rag and some cleaning spray. I usually use a bio-degradable orange works type cleaner and some shop towels.
The next thing to check is to make sure the P-trap is clean.. should be free of all debris.. hopefully it just had some water inside.
Next thing is completely optional.. But it's at this point i'll run a small 1/4" sink auger down the trap arm in to the wall. I'll usually run 15' about 3 times. using the shop towels to clean off the auger each time. It will be black and disgusting looking goop. Top Tip. If you don't own an auger. But you do own a shop vac. Use the shop vac In "wet mode" with out the filter. form a seal from the hose to the pipe and it may suck some crud up. It will also suck up sewer gas. So this can get smelly. Next and only if you have room. but install the union back on the trap. pour some water in to the trap then use the vacuum again in wet mode to suck up the contents of the trap. It may also break up anything in the trap arm and suck up some sludge at the same time.
If you choose to skip this step it's fine. When we test the sink at the end there is another pro-tip for you.
So Hopefully the drain is off the sink. The sink drain hole on top and bottom is sparkling clean. Now it's time for the install.
Might want to look at those instructions again. specifically the parts diagram.
Top portion of the drain. If there is a foam or rubber seal then you do not need silicone or plumbers putty. If the drain top has nothing just plastic or chrome then I would recommend Plumbers putty over silicone. Two reasons - #1 If in 5 years you want to remodel.. you can undo your work with ease. #2 silicone makes things slick and sometimes might make you think to tighten even more than you normally would. which in turn might cause the drain to snap. Especially plastic ones.
If you're using plumbers putty. make a 1/4" - 3/8" round rope. 6" long or so. Wrap only once overlapping 1/4" at the end. If it's a plastic drain you'll want to help the tightening process via putting some pressure on the top and squeezing the putty down as you tighten from underneath.
With a quality chrome drain let the putty squeeze out naturally. Sorry I don't currently have a picture of this but if i think to take a picture i will add it to the blog at a later point. I'm sure you understand.
Now that the drain body is in and hopefully you have the rear nut pointing rearward. You'll want to install rear leaver and the center plug portion. Usually the tab with the hole points to the back then you insert the short end of the leaver in with the nut on top. But do refer to your parts diagram. I use a leaver action to verify the plug goes up and down and then I grab and pull the plug to make sure I've gotten the leaver through the hole correctly. Again if you have read the instructions you'll understand what i'm saying.
Lastly tighten up the rear nut finger tight. and again verify the leaver makes the plug pop up and down.
Again I wish I had more pictures for you. Will likely update this in coming months.
Now connecting the Top rod with the leaver for the pop up. The manufacture gives you a bendy piece of metal as well as a slide clamp. If you're installing an american standard faucet. The slide clamp may slide off still.. In this case we use the clamp and then at the end of the rod we go around about 5 times with electrical tape. so the clamp doesn't just slide right off.
Back to the bendy piece of metal with holes. You'll want to install it either as straight as possible.. However sometimes what I mean by that is "vertical" as possible.. If it's on a severe angle it can become very tough to push and pull. You've probably experienced this... Maybe your last faucet was like this... So to combat this. make sure the main rod, as well as bendy piece is vertical. which means the bendy piece needs a 45 degree bend to bring it over and back down to the leaver that moves the plug. If you play with this for a little while you will have the "AH HA" moment!
At this point the drain is nearly connected. If the sink didn't move then the existing p-trap should still work.
If it's all new. Then there is another step or two. Before I go on.. All plastic nuts are to be Hand tightened. At the very most hand tighten and then with pump pliers a tiny snug.. tops.. no full turns as they will snap.
Also on threads. DO not use Teflon tape unless it's NPT.. which means on a sink drain you never use Teflon tape. If you need some sealant use Teflon paste or Kevlar paste. No silicone unless you feel it's absolutely necessary. If you do use silicone it's on the bottom portion of the sink to the rubber. No where else is silicone needed.
So after that. Lets refer to the picture above again. You'll notice the trap adapter. The black nut fitting on the vertical portion of the drain but below the grey piping.
Top tip for getting your drain to line up.. Eyeball your p-trap arm horizontal section to the pipe coming out of the wall. measure up from the vertical section of the trap to determine your vertical pipe length.. in the case of this picture. it looks like it's say 8" . Now glue the trap adapter to the 8" pipe and then glue it to the trap. Slide the trap up in to the grey pipe and tighten the black nut. It should stay in place. Now that your trap is hanging there awaiting for the trap arm to be cut. lets eyeball the angles and length... Ideally it comes straight out from the wall right in to the trap. If you're a pro.. This is how you planned it from the get go.. Install a coupling and then measure your pipe length and wallah.. you're done.. but if it's not quite right and you need an elbow then cut your self a couple "pup pieces" is what we call them.. maybe start at 3" and eye ball everything again. Use the measuring tape and see how it all lines up. If you're great at pool then this will be easy. If not then use your Pythagoras theorem. 1.414 x your right angle to get your long angle Minus your fitting allowance... Your teacher was right.. you will use this in your daily life.. *Fun fact.. Plumbers use a lot of math and science in school.
Well assuming you glued those joints and you didn't use silicone. You should be ready to test the sink after about 5 minutes of letting the glue set up. Double check all the nuts are tight. turn on the water to the sink. Remove the aerator. and close the drain plug by lifting the rod at the back.
Fill the sink to the overflow. Let the water sit there for a bit. making sure no water is getting passed the top of the drain. once you know the drain top is good then let a small amount of water down in to the P-trap. wait again. if no leaks then turn the water on and let water flow in to the over flow. make sure again that there are no leaks. After that is completed then let the whole sink of water go down. By having a full sink of water go down you're using Head pressure to help aid in cleaning the trap arm (drain). I usually do this 2-3 times for my customers and this way there is ample testing to verify I in fact have zero leaks before I leave. Nothing worse than a call back..
Completely optional read but I was going to explain my 60 minute mistake.. I was working with my apprentice one day who's now a journeyman by the way. We were working on a large house all with the same faucets through out. Except I was working on showers and toilets etc while my apprentice was working on sinks.. Anyways he had read the instructions and I finished up and started to help out.. I installed the rear drain nut wrong because I didn't' read the instructions. I should say that there are a few ways they are designed but usually all look very similar. Everything was finished but this one sink would not stop leaking.. I spent literally an hour trying to figure it out.. figured maybe it was a manufactures defect.. My apprentice takes it all apart and says.. It's not in the right order! Which made me feel uber bad for the time lost and it only took 30 seconds to fix.. In the end it wasn't a big deal because we test everything we touch..
If you have any questions or comments about the process please leave one!
Keep an eye out for more on the DIY plumbing series.
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