How to Install a faucet Part 2. (Drain section)

How to Install a faucet Part 2. (Drain section)

Hi everyone,  Thanks for reading part 2 of the DIY plumbing series.  In this post we will specifically go over installing "drainage" when it comes to installing a faucet.  Every Faucet install is slightly different but we will be talking about a typical leaver type pop up drain that connects to your faucet. Usually a rod slides up and down which opens and closes a drain in the sink. 

Step #1 again Read the directions.. These directions will give you the insight of which parts go where.  In this post I will talk about a mistake I made during an install that cost me 60 minutes all because I didn't refer to the parts diagram. 

So generally we will install the faucet and water lines first before the drainage because the water lines are further back. If the drainage was completed already then it might be harder to complete the faucet install.  So we would follow that part of the instructions first. Including inserting the rod in to the hole.  We will get back to the rod part in a bit. 

Next step If it's not already done.. Is to remove the old drain if it's still there.  Generally i prefer to update the drain part because they only last so long.  Depending on what the home owner uses the sink for is really the lead in to how long it will last.  Also has the customer used chemical's such as mr plumber.. especially in a metal drain.. This can really eat away at the piping.  Part of why we are replacing the drain is 9 times out of 10 the drain is likely running slow.  Since you are already replacing the faucet it's a good time to start from scratch. 

So This picture Isn't exactly the best picture to use because it's new. But I figured this might give you a good look at the components.  

First Step I'd suggest.  Is get a small bucket and put it under the trap.  This could be even a small mixing bowl, mop pail etc. Anything small enough to fit under the P-trap.  

Next step.  Loosen all the nuts.  Lefty loosey righty tighty.  Can start anywhere really. I personally start at the black upper nut in this picture.  Below the grey nut.  Then I'd loosen the P-trap nut or sometimes called the Union-nut.  this will let this pipe slide out of the way..  Be prepared for about 1 cup to 1.5 cups of water. 

Once that's out of the way the next step is the grey nuts.  bigger top one in the picture as well as the smaller one with the rod.  Once this is done there maybe (depending on your directions) another nut on top "the chrome drain portion in the sink." Once all are loosened the drain will be out.  It's this time where you may need to clean the sink with a rag and some cleaning spray.  I usually use a bio-degradable orange works type cleaner and some shop towels.  

The next thing to check is to make sure the P-trap is clean..  should be free of all debris..  hopefully it just had some water inside. 

Next thing is completely optional..  But it's at this point i'll run a small 1/4" sink auger down the trap arm in to the wall.  I'll usually run 15' about 3 times.  using the shop towels to clean off the auger each time. It will be black and disgusting looking goop.  Top Tip. If you don't own an auger.  But you do own a shop vac.  Use the shop vac In "wet mode"  with out the filter.  form a seal from the hose to the pipe and it may suck some crud up.  It will also suck up sewer gas. So this can get smelly.  Next and only if you have room.  but install the union back on the trap.  pour some water in to the trap then use the vacuum again in wet mode to suck up the contents of the trap. It may also break up anything in the trap arm and suck up some sludge at the same time. 

If you choose to skip this step it's fine.  When we test the sink at the end there is another pro-tip for you. 

So Hopefully the drain is off the sink. The sink drain hole on top and bottom is sparkling clean. Now it's time for the install.  

Might want to look at those instructions again. specifically the parts diagram. 

Top portion of the drain. If there is a foam or rubber seal then you do not need silicone or plumbers putty.  If the drain top has nothing just plastic or chrome then I would recommend Plumbers putty over silicone.  Two reasons - #1 If in 5 years you want to remodel.. you can undo your work with ease. #2 silicone makes things slick and sometimes might make you think to tighten even more than you normally would. which in turn might cause the drain to snap. Especially plastic ones.  

If you're using plumbers putty.  make a 1/4" - 3/8" round rope. 6" long or so.  Wrap only once overlapping 1/4"  at the end.  If it's a plastic drain you'll want to help the tightening process via putting some pressure on the top and squeezing the putty down as you tighten from underneath.  

With a quality chrome drain let the putty squeeze out naturally.  Sorry I don't currently have a picture of this but if i think to take a picture i will add it to the blog at a later point. I'm sure you understand. 

Now that the drain body is in and hopefully you have the rear nut pointing rearward. You'll want to install rear leaver and the center plug portion.  Usually the tab with the hole points to the back then you insert the short end of the leaver in with the nut on top. But do refer to your parts diagram. I use a leaver action to verify the plug goes up and down and then I grab and pull the plug to make sure I've gotten the leaver through the hole correctly.  Again if you have read the instructions you'll understand what i'm saying.  

Lastly tighten up the rear nut finger tight. and again verify the leaver makes the plug pop up and down. 

Again I wish I had more pictures for you.  Will likely update this in coming months. 

Now connecting the Top rod with the leaver for the pop up.  The manufacture gives you a bendy piece of metal as well as a slide clamp.  If you're installing an american standard faucet. The slide clamp may slide off still.. In this case we use the clamp and then at the end of the rod we go around about 5 times with electrical tape.  so the clamp doesn't just slide right off.  

Back to the bendy piece of metal with holes.  You'll want to install it either as straight as possible.. However sometimes what I mean by that is "vertical" as possible..  If it's on a severe angle it can become very tough to push and pull. You've probably experienced this...  Maybe your last faucet was like this...  So to combat this.  make sure the main rod, as well as bendy piece is vertical. which means the bendy piece needs a 45 degree bend to bring it over and back down to the leaver that moves the plug.  If you play with this for a little while you will have the "AH HA" moment! 

At this point the drain is nearly connected. If the sink didn't move then the existing p-trap should still work. 

 If it's all new.  Then there is another step or two.  Before I go on.. All plastic nuts are to be Hand tightened.  At the very most hand tighten and then with pump pliers a tiny snug.. tops..  no full turns as they will snap. 

Also on threads. DO not use Teflon tape unless it's NPT..  which means on a sink drain you never use Teflon tape.  If you need some sealant use  Teflon paste or Kevlar paste.  No silicone unless you feel it's absolutely necessary. If you do use silicone it's on the bottom portion of the sink to the rubber.  No where else is silicone needed.  

So after that.  Lets refer to the picture above again.  You'll notice the trap adapter. The black nut fitting on the vertical portion of the drain but below the grey piping. 

Top tip for getting your drain to line up..  Eyeball your p-trap arm horizontal section to the pipe coming out of the wall.  measure up from the vertical section of the trap to determine your vertical pipe length..  in the case of this picture. it looks like it's say 8" .  Now glue the trap adapter to the 8" pipe and then glue it to the trap.  Slide the trap up in to the grey pipe and tighten the black nut.  It should stay in place.  Now that your trap is hanging there awaiting for the trap arm to be cut. lets eyeball  the angles and length...  Ideally it comes straight out from the wall right in to the trap.  If you're a pro.. This is how you planned it from the get go.. Install a coupling and then measure your pipe length and wallah.. you're done.. but if it's not quite right and you need an elbow then cut your self a couple "pup pieces"  is what we call them..  maybe start at 3" and eye ball everything again. Use the measuring tape and see how it all lines up.  If you're great at pool then this will be easy. If not then use your Pythagoras theorem.  1.414 x your right angle to get your long angle Minus your fitting allowance... Your teacher was right.. you will use this in your daily life.. *Fun fact.. Plumbers use a lot of math and science in school. 

Well assuming you glued those joints and you didn't use silicone.  You should be ready to test the sink after about 5 minutes of letting the glue set up. Double check all the nuts are tight. turn on the water to the sink. Remove the aerator. and close the drain plug by lifting the rod at the back. 

Fill the sink to the overflow.  Let the water sit there for a bit. making sure no water is getting passed the top of the drain.  once you know the drain top is good then let a small amount of water down in to the P-trap.  wait again.  if no leaks then turn the water on and let water flow in to the over flow.  make sure again that there are no leaks.  After that is completed then let the whole sink of water go down.  By having a full sink of water go down you're using Head pressure to help aid in cleaning the trap arm (drain).  I usually do this 2-3 times for my customers and this way there is ample testing to verify I in fact have zero leaks before I leave. Nothing worse than a call back.. 

Completely optional read but I was going to explain my 60 minute mistake..  I was working with my apprentice one day who's now a journeyman by the way.  We were working on a large house all with the same faucets through out.  Except I was working on showers and toilets etc while my apprentice was working on sinks.. Anyways he had read the instructions and I finished up and started to help out.. I installed the rear drain nut wrong because I didn't' read the instructions. I should say that there are a few ways they are designed but usually all look very similar.   Everything was finished but this one sink would not stop leaking.. I spent literally an hour trying to figure it out.. figured maybe it was a manufactures defect.. My apprentice takes it all apart and says.. It's not in the right order! Which made me feel uber bad for the time lost and it only took 30 seconds to fix.. In the end it wasn't a big deal because we test everything we touch.. 

If you have any questions or comments about the process please leave one! 

Keep an eye out for more on the DIY plumbing series. 

DIY - How to install a faucet

  DIY - Install your own faucet

  I’m a licenced plumber in Alberta, Canada.  I get asked " What are some of the easier  plumbing DIY's a home owner could tackle”  In the next few blog posts I’ll attempt to give some professional advice and tips on this subject. I’ve looked online to see what advice is out there, and often found some aspects were missing. I wanted to provide my own spin on this particular task: How to install a faucet. I’ll go through everything from step 1: fully reading instructions (which even professionals do!), to the tools needed, and a few tips here and there to stop leaks before they happen.

Every homeowner, has an ideal comfort level with DIYs no matter if it’s plumbing or electrical or something else. A simple task like installing a flapper which by the way requires zero tools is one thing.  However it can be quite daunting to change a faucet when working with pressurized water, old valves, decaying matter in a p-trap and making sure it all goes together with out a hitch.

The first, and most important, task to do when changing any faucet or even simply installing a brand new one in a reno, is **read the instructions**! It might seem trivial, however even as professionals, we find that brands change the way they do things 2-3 times in the same year.  So even if I only briefly look over the instructions to see if there have been any changes, I still read the instruction. The big things to look for is the parts lay out and the tools needed. Specifically look for anything that says “not included” or optional.

Next, give your self some time and space.  If you think the job will be 20 minutes, triple or quadruple that estimate!  When it comes to space, please do empty under the sink. If you’re bigger or even skinnier have some sort of foam pad handy..  laying under a sink with a cabinet edge in your back isn’t comfortable. But necessary. Also have a flood light or flash light handy.

                    Tools

-        Basin wrench

-        Multi bit screw driver

-        Socket set with the screw driver attachment (uber handy) we use these on the regular

-        Hammer (yes on occasion you’ll need a hammer)

-        Crescent wrench (two sizes sometimes)

-        Pump pliers (two sizes sometimes)

-        Flat scraping blade

-        Scotch bright pad.

-        5/8’s open ended wrench (fits on a 3/8” compression nut)

-        Hack saw blade (just the blade. And yes occasionally you’ll need this too.)

How to choose the correct faucet.

There are a few things to consider. Is this a simple replacement, or is this a reno with a completely new sink?

Options,

-        Single hole.

-        4” center set

-        5” center set (very very rare but to exist)

-        8” center set

-        Vessel sink install.  *typically a longer/taller faucet is needed.

-        Roman tub filler (typical for a soaker tub, mounted on the tub)

-        Optional is a plate that allows you to cover up old holes to allow a single hole install.

-        Optional is a plate that allows you to cover up some holes and allow a single faucet and a single side sprayer (typically cheaper kitchen faucets)

This list might not be every option out there but it should be the majority.

Other features to consider, Water sense, low flow. Though very typical for many new faucets these days. They feel like they spray just as much water as their predecessors however it’s due to the aerator technology as well as inlet piping that determines the ultimate volume. This is determined in GPM or LPM depending on where the faucet comes from or intended on being sold. Canadian cUPC and NSF certified faucets are measured in GPM (Gallons per minute) for some odd reason.

Other features may include integrated  pull out wands with adjustable spray settings and even no touch or single tap technology.

Things you may want to do before you purchase. 

-        Take a picture

-        Use a measuring tape from center of each handle (assuming two handle)  This will let you determine “center set”

-        Again, is this a replacement or a reno? If it’s a reno you want to know what counter (granite, quarts etc) Sink, top mount, under mount what are the measurements! Very very important.

After you have your measurements, or determined if I’ts a simple replacement. You should have a good idea of what you’re getting.  Even still, bring those pictures and feel free to ask questions. Lots of questions.

Once you’re set! Let’s get your work space prepared.

Clear the cabinet.  Lay a decent sized towel down on the floor beside you. On the towel lay out your tools. This is a pro tip! Customers never want to see tools on their brand-new hard wood floors or any floor for that matter. If your plumber doesn’t put anything down. Then maybe think about his over all “value” to you. This is typically where you want to turn off the water first. As a general rule of thumb and so no accident’s happen. Turn off the valves under the sink first. Open the faucet to drain the water down. Close the faucet and maybe take this time to read the instructions again before you start.  After a couple minutes open the faucet again. IF water starts to spray this means your valves are passing. Very very common. This is Pro tip #2 by the way. IF this is the case simply use your main water shut off. Shut off the water and open a faucet on a lower floor if possible. This way if your main also passes it will dribble below where you’re working. Sadly if you are working at the lowest point in the home then prepare with some towels. More of an annoyance really.

So you have everything ready. You’ve read the instructions, you have the necessary tools and hopefully PPE (clear safety glasses & gloves at minimum) The cabinet is cleared and the water is off.    

Demo time.

Get your cushion or foam pad from the kids play room. Get under the sink with a flood light or flash light.  Make a mental note of where things are connected. If it’s a simple replacement the job should be very very easy despite how it may look.. You will likely see rust, debris, signs of past or present leaks, white electrolysis residue growing out of different metals.  This is why you need safety glasses.  As you undo nuts, bolts or screws this stuff will fall in your face.  Sometimes a dust mask is handy.  

The picture below is just a simple kitchen faucet which you may notice has lots of what I’m describing. The older the faucet typically the harder to remove. If it’s Moen like this example. Hopefully the tool needed was left with the faucet or taped up in to a corner. If not then get out your basin wrench or small crescent wrench. If the nut doesn’t budge get out some WD40 and spray it a couple times and wait 20-30 minutes.  If it loosens off with out a hitch then you’re in luck! 

-        Loosen all retaining clamps, nuts, screws etc which ever the case.

-        Loosen the hot and cold supply lines from the valves.  (keep a towel handy)

-        If there are any accessories loosen or unclip them at the same time.

Your efforts should do you well as the faucet should come out.

If the pesky nut didn’t budge. Then loosen everything possible and get out your saw blade and hammer.. cut through the brass post at or above the nut. Even if you only cut 40-50% through then use a hammer to break it off. This is Pro tip #3  we use this method a few times a year.   Couple optional tools you can use.  Vibration cutting tools, Dremel and a small grinder can sometimes fit.  Saw blade works great but can be tedious.  

In some cases like in 4” center set faucets the nuts holding the faucet in are made of plastic. If they don’t budge simply take your flat blade screw driver, hammer and wedge it then whack. They will snap easily. Used this method on a porcelain pedestal sink two days ago as a matter of fact.

Oxidation on threads

Now you have somewhat of a clean slate.

9 times out of ten there is now some cleaning involved.

Before you install a new faucet always clean and dry the area. Make sure you have scraped off any old putty, silicone etc. you want a perfectly clean slate.

After you have cleaned up you may as well box or bag up the old stuff.  Tip #4 plumbers recycle the old metal. Brass and copper are worth money.  So, if you’re doing a reno make sure you don’t throw this stuff away. It may pay for that faucet you really want in the kitchen.

In this blog post I haven’t covered the drain portion. Keep an eye out for part two!

Install time.

This is the part where I see varying degrees of opinions. Which is why I’m writing this blog in the first place. I may have said above in the intro.. I took considerable time to read some other blog posts however it became clear to me they were not written from an experienced plumber. They sure didn’t pass along any trade secrets.  The BIG NO NO and Pro Tip #5 is on a compression joint NEVER use Teflon tape.  Teflon tape is only to be used on NPT threads.  Simple as that.  If you’re concerned about leaks on any other types of threads or sealing surfaces use either Teflon paste or Kevlar paste.  I prefer Kevlar paste as it’s fine for rubber surfaces too.  Obviously read the instructions on the type of paste you choose.  But again 3 other blog posts I read before writing this one says stuff like “it’s a good idea to wrap a little plumber’s tape around the threads of the supply lines before reconnecting them.”  This is bad advice.  If it’s a new faucet and the supply lines are 3/8” compression nuts with rubber washers inside. Then you don’t need any sealant what’s so ever.  If you are using old used supply lines.. get new ones. Pro Tip #6 Never re use old supply lines! For the $7ea that they are.. get new ones. They only last about 15 years anyways.

Back to the install! The hard part is over.  If you need to Please re-read the instructions and specifically look at the parts diagram to see where each part fits. This is the diagram that shows all the parts in order. Very very important to pay keen attention.  This step will save you 1 minute to an hour depending on each situation.

Not every brand is the same but if you choose a nearly identical faucet to install in-place of what you had then the install will be similar to your removal.  Follow the instructions and the parts diagram for visual support.

You may need help especially if it’s a kitchen faucet to keep the faucet center as you’re trying to tighten it up. Especially if it’s a single handle one hole.  If you’re all alone like most plumbers, we typically snug up the screws, bolts, nuts what ever they might be so it’s able to be moved with ease.  Then we make sure everything is centered.  We continue snugging up the screws etc then check again. Then snug it up some more until it’s solid. Never over tighten. If you hear squeaking, It’s plenty tight.  If it is tight but still moves, then there maybe an issue like the bottom ring isn’t sitting right or maybe the sealing O-ring wasn’t in place etc.  Pro tip #7 silicone is generally not used for the base of a single handle faucet.  9 times out of 10 there are O-rings, sealing rings, foam washers etc.  Silicone will make things slick and even if it’s tight it may move and you might feel you need to do more tightening.  Don’t over tighten!!   

Lets say the instructions made sense and the install went off with out a hitch… what now?  Before you turn the water back on. Remove the aerator. Most new faucets there is a tool in the box. If there is no tool then it’s usually meant to be removed by hand. Lefty loosie righty tightly Pro tip #8

Open the Hot valve first. Or what you may think is hot. (Ideally both are connected at this point) Run the hot water and wait till it feels hot.  Compare with the faucet markings. If it’s reversed simply turn the water back off. Reverse the water lines and start again. Open the hot first and test. Then cold and test.  You may experience some air in the lines.. This is completely normal. Another normal thing you may see is Black or Blueish looking water or even sediment. All normal and Ideal with that aerator removed.   Once the water runs clear on both hot and cold. It’s time to put the aerator back in. There should be an O-ring or a flat ring, so no sealants will be needed. Though you can use “Silicone Lubricant” very different from silicone. When working with O-rings Pro Tip #9 is get the O-ring wet with water or use silicone lubricant as to deter pinching or cutting of the O-ring.

At this point I’d say you’re done.  Now If at some point you found a bigger issue that you feel you’re not willing to take on then call a pro.  Don’t use the phone book or google the general term plumber.  Call family members or friends and get a good solid referral. Pro Tip #10 If friends and family haven’t come up with a solid referral then Call your Realtor.  They always have 1-3 that they trust up their sleeve.  Always ask for an estimate and make sure you have them agree to hold their estimate to within 10% of what they think the job will cost. Stuff comes up with every job but a 100% overage is unacceptable. Let them know that right off the bat.  There is a company in my city that is known for “$1000” faucet installs… keep an eye out on google reviews for whom that might be! Absolute craziness!

 Well my friends you just tackled yours; for next to free.  If you liked this post keep an eye out for the next one. It will be about drainage in relation to faucets. Some faucets come with a pop up. Question is… Do you use it? Or do you choose something else?  Read on to find out!

 James C

www.championplumbing.ca

www.bravadoessentials.ca

YouTube Video on Cross connection.  I admit it is american however the same information exists in Canada.

Hello,

Jcbackflo is being re-branded.  

As you may have noticed nothing has been added in recent years as I worked full time.
Starting January first 2017 I will start doing business in the city of Calgary as a sole proprietor.  In the next few months i'll be setting up the business as well as a new name with a new website.

In January I have finally got the van running reliably. Over the next month or two i'll attempt to have decals installed on the van.

It is near February now and the goal for this month is to finish the business side of things so i can start doing jobs for the public.

Keep an eye out for a link to the new website once developed.

Jc

Q&A about cross connection.

Q: What is a cross connection?

A: A cross connection is; Any Direct or indirect connection between a non-potable source of water and a potable source of water.

Example: Hot sunny day, Mom/Dad decides to fill the baby pool up in the back yard. Mom/Dad Leaves the hose in the pool while the child plays. The Pool becomes contaminated due to fecal mater from the child, birds, pets etc.. The hose is still inside the pool while filling. For some unknown reason a "high" demand situation occurs street side or inside the home. When this happens a "Back Siphon" occurs VIA the hose in the pool. Sucking pool water in to the home. After a few days the contaminated water grows inside the homes pipes and the family gets sick. Worse still the water gets back in to the City main and causes sickness in the whole area.
This is just one example of a possible 50,000 Cross connections that happen each day according to the AWWA "American water works association

Q: How Can i prevent a Cross Connection?

A: [part A] Being aware is the best way to stop possible cross connections. Knowing your City/Township's Bylaws are your best bet against these connections from happening. If your City or town does not have a cross connection bylaw in place. I would advise you contact your local officials to start up a preventative water contamination program.

Example: Here is a link to the city of Calgary's water utility bylaw. To which every land/building owner/operator in the city of Calgary must know.
http://www.calgary.ca/DocGallery/BU/cityclerks/40m2006.pdf

A: [part B] There are Many Devices and ways to stop possible Cross connections.

1. Using proper national plumbing code practices will stop 95% of cross connections. If you purchased a home or building, Have licensed Cross connection control specialist inspect your property. (I'll go further in to this topic on another post)

2. Choosing the correct device.
[list of devices]
- Air Gap eg present in a Toilet with ball-cock Assembly, Flushometer valve, Janitor sink.
- AVB Eg. Home outside hose bib faucet
-PVB Eg. Home/business irrigation with no chemicals present
-LFVB Eg. Hospital lab bench faucet
-DuCap Eg. home boiler heating system with no chemicals present
-DCVA Eg. Fire suppression system or townhouse complex meter-tree no chemicals present
-RP Eg. For use when sever hazard present. heating boiler with chemicals, fire suppression with chemicals, irrigation with chemicals.

3. Testable Devices require Testing and maintenance on an annual basis. these devices are:
PVB,DCVA and RP. Or any other CSA,UL Approved back flow prevention device with test ports.

4. Annual Inspection of property or after Construction/Renovation. Including Changes in type of business. Eg; Retail clothing store now changed to a Hair salon. Or produce market adding a bakery.

Adding new services to your business may also warrant a cross control consultation. Keep in mind your insurance company may want to know of such changes. (More on insurance in another topic.)